No Religion, a New Denim Label to Watch

During the last six years, No Religion, the darkly romantic label launched by Luis Dobbelgarten, has shipped hundreds of pairs of deconstructed denims from a nondescript brick constructing in Cologne, Germany, the place the self-taught designer each lives and works.

Most of the time, his prospects uncover the model on Instagram and order instantly from a web site made by Dobblegarten himself. The label makes ready-to-wear items like outsized bomber jackets and slouchy knitwear and, later this yr, plans to launch leather-based outerwear and penny loafers. However its $200 denims are its essential focus, producing about 90 % of gross sales.

Up to now, 2022 has been a superb yr for Dobbelgarten, a former skateboarder who started dabbling in style on the age of 15 when he bought silkscreen t-shirts to his classmates. The deconstructed denim pattern that has seen one in all style’s hottest supplies twisted by the likes of Y/Mission and Diesel designer Glenn Martens has given No Religion a lift. So have celebrities like Lil Tecca and German rapper CRO, each of whom have worn the label.

No Religion’s denim creations are creative. One fashion comes with 64 pockets wrapping round its legs like a honeycomb; one other comes with seams adorned with tufted, unraveling edges. Its flared, 90s-era, wide-leg rave trousers are distressed in random locations.

“I’m not a giant fan of [traditionally] stunning issues,” says Dobblegarten, who sources his materials in Europe and finds inspiration within the mundane. Not too long ago, he was impressed by his grandmother’s lace curtains, which resulted in lace patches utilized to corduroy jackets and pants.

A yr in the past, the label started distributing through two impartial retailers: Nubian in Tokyo and Roadside Studios in Taipei. Yifan Yeh, the founder and purchaser of Roadside, stumbled upon the label on Instagram two years in the past and was instantly drawn to its arresting designs.

With 2022 gross sales monitoring 250 % up on final yr and at the newest pop-up in Cologne, Germany individuals got here from Switzerland and Denmark who waited for six hours to snag a pair of his unique denim. Dobblegarten goals to develop his staff. He says he has obtained affords from German buyers however is ready for “the correct companion”.

Albert Ayal is the founding father of Up Subsequent Designer.